INSIDE INFO Trans Bhutan Trail Stage 1: The Trek from Paro to Haa via the Kaley La pass Bhutan Himalaya Editors Bhutan Himalaya Editors Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter THE TREK FROM Paro to Haa on the Trans Bhutan Trail via Kalela is a captivating journey that combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and a touch of adventure. This route covers approximately 25 kilometers and can be completed in a day, depending on your pace and preference for exploring the surroundings. Starting Point: Paro 2000m/6,800ft Paro is a picturesque valley town known for its serene landscapes, traditional architecture, and historic sites. The trek begins from this charming town, offering views of lush rice fields, quaint villages, and the iconic Paro Dzong, a fortress-monastery that stands as a testament to Bhutanese history and culture. Initial Ascent The trek starts with a steady ascent, taking you through thick pine forests and past vibrant rhododendron bushes, especially beautiful in the spring. The trail is well-marked and maintained, providing a clear path amidst the dense foliage. As you climb higher, the air becomes cooler, and the sounds of the valley below fade into a tranquil silence. Highest point: Kalela, approximately 3,500m/11,450ft After a few hours of trekking, you will reach Kalela Pass, which sits at an elevation of around 3,500 meters (11,450 feet). This pass offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. On a clear day, you can see the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas in the distance. Kalela is a great spot to rest, take photos, and soak in the breathtaking scenery. Descent into Haa Valley From Kalela, the trail begins its descent into the Haa Valley. The path winds through green meadows, past traditional yak herding areas, and alongside crystal-clear streams. The descent is gentle, allowing you to enjoy the serene beauty of the landscape at a relaxed pace. Near the end of the trail we take you to visit a beautiful cliffside temple where you have to squeeze between two large boulders to enter. Inside are rare paintings, including those of the goddesses of compassion, protection and wisdom. Arrival in Haa As you approach the Haa Valley, you will notice a change in the landscape, with the valley opening up to reveal expansive fields and traditional Bhutanese homes and raised cultivated fields. Haa is known for its unspoiled natural beauty and rich heritage. The valley is relatively less frequented by tourists, making it a perfect detour for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

INSIDE INFO Hot Tub Time Machine: Bhutan's ancient practice of mineral baths offer a new experience for travelers Bhutan Himalaya Editors Bhutan Himalaya Editors Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter THE PROCESS BEGINS by heating smooth river rocks over a roaring fire until they glow red hot. The molten stones are carefully lowered into a wooden tub filled with cold water, instantly heating it and releasing clouds of fragrant steam as bundles of artemisia herbs are added. "It's a very simple but powerful experience," said Sonam Tobgay, who operates a traditional menchu bath house on his family's farm in central Bhutan. "The hot stones transfer their heat and minerals to purify the water, while the herbs provide therapeutic benefits." As the tub's temperature gradually rises, bathers slip into the steamy menchu for an hour or longer. The penetrating warmth is believed to alleviate ailments from arthritis and muscle pain to skin conditions and digestive issues by improving blood circulation. Ancient Roots, Modern Indulgence For generations, Bhutanese families gathered around the menchu after long days working the winter fields, soaking away aches and restoring weary bodies. Some consulted astrologers to determine the most auspicious bathing time based on celestial alignments thought to enhance the ritual's restorative powers. "It was a way to bond as a community and heal not just physically but spiritually," said Kinley Wangchuk, an elder from the village of Gangtey. "We welcomed each season's arrival by bathing in the hot stones and herbs, connecting to the natural cycles." While rooted in humbler village traditions, luxury hotels and spas have reinvented the menchu as a high-end amenity for discerning global travelers. At the more upscale lodges and resorts, guests can indulge in a Bhutanese Hot Stone Bath surrounded by glowing candles and flower petals (not part of the tradition) in traquil surroundings for an extra fee, as an add-on to their packages. "The menchu is a signature experience that allows our visitors to authentically immerse themselves in Bhutan's living heritage," said Thinley Wangchuk, the manager of one such luxury property. "After soaking in the nurturing waters, they emerge feeling rejuvenated yet also spiritually grounded." Sensory Journey The menchu offers a multi-sensory journey that taps into the core of Bhutan's Buddhist beliefs - simplicity, mindfulness and respect for the natural world. Slipping into a fragrant bath, one is meant to release the stress of daily life with each breath of the herb-infused steam. The gentle lapping of the heated water lulls the bather into a state of calm awareness, allowing present moment awareness. "It's not just a physical experience, but also a spiritual one of reconnecting with nature's simple yet powerful elements," said Sangay Tenzin, who offers menchu baths at his eco-lodge in Bhutan's remote Gasa region. "Guests always emerge with a profound sense of peace and rejuvenation." As Bhutan cautiously embraces modern tourism and development, the ancient menchu tradition allows travelers a rare glimpse into the core of this isolated Buddhist culture. By immersing themselves in the centuries-old hot stone bath ritual, visitors can tap into an authenticity increasingly hard to find in our fast-paced world. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

Stories and features about all things Bhutanese to pique your interest ... THIS MONTH'S Featured Articles Our in-house stories & features on all things Bhutanese. We want to further your understanding & appreciation for our beautiful corner of the Himalayas! While we're mostly busy in the field leading trips, we will be posting when we can, so please keep checking back more... LEARN MORE More Suggested Reading TRAVEL SNAPSHOTS GUEST VIGNETTES INSIGHTS LEARN MORE LONG READS GOING DEEPER TRIP ARCHIVES PAST JOURNEYS

FIELD REPORT Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary: Hidden gem in a hidden land Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link The Euthok Goemba lamasery is window-framed picture perfectly from every single room of the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter IN THE SMALL market of Shaba, a few miles shy of Bhutan’s only international airport, we hit a rocky dirt road leading to a narrow fold between overlapping mountains. Ramshackle shops in cheerful Bhutanese colors lean on either side of the bumpy road, followed by local homes and farms, and a small community school. Soon, the road disappears behind the broad, sumo bulk of one of the mountains seen from the road. At the bend, there’s a small sign in Dzongkha, the national script of Bhutan. “This is the mythic site of a hidden lake,” it says on the sign, followed by the cryptic words: “Sometimes a black snake is seen here; take that as a bad omen.” Thankfully, there’s no sign of the lake or the ill-omen snake. Such articles of mystic faith populate the Bhutanese landscape where striking natural features are seen as portals to other unseen realms. And none more so than this tucked away corner of Paro which is sometimes described by Bhutanese elders as a Bae-yul , one of the many secret paradises hidden across the Himalayas. It’s easy to see how the idea got started. The massive bulk of the mountain in front of us blocks the interiors of what we’re about to see. We turn the corner, and the revelation is dramatic. A secret village, awash in the golden winter sun, hidden from the rest of the well-traveled Paro Valley below, blooms in front of us. Like James Hilton’s Shangrila come to life, the famous lamasery of Euthok Goemba sits atop the opposite hill like an ornate gemstone on a wedding ring. The rocky road winds upward, bouncing us past local farmhouses and dry rice terraces etched into the hillside in this stubbly winter season. Soon, we come up on the monastery-style building that’s the first all-inclusive wellness center based on Bhutanese healing traditions. The entry past a small grove of pine trees feels less like arriving at a hotel, and more like stepping into another world. Bishal, from guest services — sporting a smart, striped Bhutanese gho — is waiting at the entrance with traditional silk khadhars, the soft folds of the scarves falling over our necks like a gentle benediction. He leads us through the striking crimson wooden doors—with elaborately carved brass knockers—that open to a classic stone courtyard surrounded by prayer wheels you can turn for spiritual merit. He guides us past the small bridge to another set of doors next to a small plaque announcing the lodge’s membership in the coveted SLH “Small Luxury Hotels” group. “This threshold marks our passage to an intermediate transformation space, the kind found in Bhutanese monasteries,“ Bishal says, as he invites us to light votive butterlamps. “We leave the ordinary world behind to enter a sacred space.” It’s all a bit self-serious, but as the radiant golden doors open, and the breathtaking panorama of Neyphu Valley reveals itself in its luminous splendor, I find myself taken in. Inside, Tracy, the pastry chef and acting lodge manager, greets us and provides a warm introduction, followed by Govind, from the front desk, who guides us and settles us in. There’s no formal check-in; instead, you’re greeted with a small shot of medicine tea from local herbs and minerals concocted by the resident Menpa , or physician. Then we’re invited to relax by a vast picture window that opens to clouds drifting languidly across the Paro Valley and the sloping roofs of the picturesque Euthok monastery. After check-in is over — a simple matter of signing in with your email and picking out your house made herbal soap — we’re led downstairs to the wellness center. A traditional Bhutanese doctor — a graduate of the National Institute of Traditional Medicine (NITM) — joins us for the complimentary consultation. Dr. Dochen says traditional Bhutanese medicine focuses on balancing the body’s internal energy, similar in some ways to Chinese traditional medicine. Health is understood as a harmonious flow of subtle energy through about 70,000 channels, summarized into three main ones: a central channel from the base of the spine to the crown of the head, and right and left channels that meet at the center of the chest at key energy centers or chakras, such as the heart and sacral chakras. “When these channels are blocked or the energy becomes excessive, deficient, or disturbed, it leads to physical and mental symptoms that can eventually develop into disease,” Dr. Dochen says. “Treatment follows a stepwise direction: first adjusting diet and lifestyle, then, if needed, prescribing compound herbal medicines in forms like pills or powders, and finally, if these don’t help, using external therapies such as massage, compresses, moxibustion, cupping, and bloodletting.” Dr. Dochen’s calm voice and thoughtful gaze makes the exchange feel restorative. He takes my pulse, asks about sleep, digestion, energy — listening not only to what I say, but to what lies quietly unspoken. It’s a fitting introduction to a sanctuary built around balance, introspection, and Bhutan’s therapeutic traditions. Later, as dusk falls, the valley below turns liquid gold before melting into a deep, enveloping blue. Through tall windows, the last light fades, leaving us with an exquisite sense of stillness. Dinner unfolds slowly, almost ceremonially — garden herbs, an amuse bouche of crispy flatbread on a bed of yogurt, a light and delicately flavored wild mushroom consommé, roasted chicken strips atop a colorful vegetable stew, and, for dessert, a small cup of dark chocolate mousse, with the cup made wholly from chocolate. We enjoy our repast with Louk Lennaerts, the Dutch founder of the lodge, who regales us with tales of his wide and varied experiences across the hospitality industry. Lennaerts first visited Bhutan in 2013, initially seeing it as a somewhat mysterious, little‑known destination, but was deeply moved by the country’s tranquillity and spiritual atmosphere. That visit inspired the idea of building a sanctuary dedicated to inner balance and wellbeing, rather than a typical sightseeing hotel, leading him to acquire hillside land in Neyphu Valley with sweeping monastery and mountain views. “This is not a hotel, this is not a resort,” Lennaerts says. “The name says it all. It’s a sanctuary. The luxury is not the luxury of materialism but the luxury of time, of connecting deeply within. These days that’s the deepest luxury of all!” Back in our room, high ceilings, warm timber floors, handwoven textiles, and gentle lighting create a space that feels more like a mountain retreat than a hotel suite. The bed faces the valley, with every one of the 24 rooms looking out on to the storybook Euthok monastery. The silence is almost tangible — broken only by the faint rustle of prayer flags stirring outside our window. Morning brings a dreamlike vision outside our tall windows. The valley with long ropes of mist, pierced by slivers of light as the sun edges over the eastern horizon. Wrapped in a robe, tea in hand, my better half stands at the window to watch the day awaken. Later, she goes downstairs for a yoga session that unfolds in a sunlit studio overlooking the valley views. The heated indoor pool features panoramic floor-to-ceiling glass windows framing an ocean of clouds. Time feels briefly irrelevant. By midday, the world below reappears, reality drawing us back to our commitments. Yet something lingers — a quiet recalibration, a sense of inner spaciousness. As we drive back down the hillside, the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary recedes into the afternoon, and soon is hidden behind the final bend, shrouded back in its dreamlike mystery, a hidden gem in a hidden land. *** To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

IN FOCUS The magnificent madness of Bhutan's wild rhododendrons Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter AS A YOUNG boy in Bhutan, I waited eagerly for the first signs of spring each year. Not because of the warmer weather or the longer days, but because of the magnificent spectacle that would unfold in the mountains above our capital – the wild rhododendron blooms. Such was the transformative power of this annual explosion of color in our mountains that even my father, a stern man of few words, would become an excited child as the rhododendron season took hold. He made us wear our finest traditional clothes — colorful handwoven silk and brocade ghos and kiras — and with a twinkle in his eye, ushered us into his Jeep for a journey up the winding mountain roads. I can still remember the feeling of that moment we'd reach that special spot – a small curve of compact dirt that offered a breathtaking view of the glittering snowcapped Himalayan peaks. My father would practically leap from the car, shooing us out with great excitement. My mother, my three sisters, and I followed him up the mountain path, our vibrant clothes matching the great overhanging blooms of the rhododendron trees that stood out against the deep mist-wrapped forests of ancient pine and fir. Our destination was always the same – a majestic, ancient rhododendron tree that seemed to embrace us with its sprawling branches. As we gathered beneath its canopy, my father would set up his beloved 35mm Canon AV1 on its tripod. He'd meticulously frame the shot, ensuring the camera captured both our family and the sumptuous trumpets of rhododendron blooms. With the timer set, he'd dash to join us, always finding time for a final touch – adjusting his forest green fedora to a jaunty angle or tossing a bright silk scarf around his neck, the camera's click freezing in time our family amid the explosion of color that heralded Bhutan's spring. As I grew older, I realized that this "rhododendron madness" wasn't unique to my family. It was deeply ingrained in Bhutanese culture. I discovered that our kingdom boasts an incredible 46 wholly native species of rhododendrons, with 10 additional subspecies. These aren't the pruned ornamental bushes you might find in Western gardens. No, Bhutan's rhododendrons are wild, untamed giants, some reaching heights of over 65 feet! From late March to the end of May, these magnificent rhododendrons transform our mountainsides into a painter's palette. Mute puffs of scarlet, pink, cream, gold, and white cascade down the slopes of the mighty Himalayas — a sight that has inspired poets*, driven Bhutanese archers to acts of seeming madness**, and even set off a botanical craze in 19th-century Europe***. Now, as an adult, I understand why my father was so enraptured by these blooms. They represent more than just the changing of seasons – they embody the wild beauty of Bhutan itself. These days when I stumble on a particularly stunning grove of giant rhododendrons during a hike, I'm filled with the same awe that must have inspired the 19th-century British naturalist Frank Kingdon Ward****to describe them as "fiery curtains" and "incandescent lava." Each spring, as the rhododendrons paint our mountains with their vibrant hues, I'm transported back to those early family outings in my father’s Jeep. I hear my father's excited voice, feel the soft silk of my gho, and see the ancient tree stretching its arms toward the Himalayan sky. These wild blooms, in all their untamed glory, are more than just flowers, they're a living, breathing piece of Bhutan's soul, a natural wonder that continues to captivate and inspire all who witness their magnificent madness each year during the stunning Bhutanese spring. _______ *A Chinese poet of old, Cheng Yanxlong, is said to have compared the red flowers of the rhododendron to “blood dropped from the mouths of cuckoo birds.” Chinese folklore says that the cuckoo birds arrive first in spring, followed by the rhododendron blooms. **As the rhododendron season nears, Bhutanese archers can be seen jumping back and forth in front of the target, abandoning all good sense to the winds, even as their opponents prepare to shoot. The archer raising his bow and taking aim cries out: “Ethometho sha rendo! Ngi da kari pho rendo!” which, translated, means “Just as it’s time for the rhododendrons to bloom, so it’s time for my arrows to find their mark! ***Joseph Hooker’s Rhododendrons of the Sikkim-Himalaya was published in 1849, setting off a wild craze among European botanists, gardeners and enthusiasts, causing a flurry of artists from the era to paint them in the florid and gushing styles in which they were being described in the literary prose of the time. ***Frank Kingdon Ward was also the first person to document the rare and elusive Himalayan Blue Poppy, Bhutan’s national flower. The quotes above appear in his book “Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges: Retracing the Epic Journey of 1924-25 in South-East Tibet”; edited by Kenneth Cox, Antique Collectors Club Ltd., August 2001). ~ Karma Dorji is the author of Dreaming of Prayer Flags: Stories & Images from Bhutan, 2008 To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

A pair of NYTimes journalists get a taste of Bhutan's happiness. FIELD NOTES Traveling to learn about Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness policy Karma Dorji, Bhutan Himalaya Travel Programs Coordinator Karma Dorji, Bhutan Himalaya Travel Programs Coordinator July 21, 2010 Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link Children in Lobeysa playing amid the harvested stubble of their ricefields © Karma Dorji, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter NEW YORK TIMES journalists get a taste of Bhutan's happiness, in these reflections by Bhutan Himalaya's Travel Programs Coordinator. Bhutan’s Fourth King, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck (center), often told the Bhutanese people to think of the country as one big family © Kuensel, Bhutan's National Newspaper “We are all part of one big Bhutanese family,” Bhutan’s Fourth King (and father of the current king), His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, chief architect of the kingdom’s Gross National Happiness policy, was fond of saying. I heard these words so frequently during the early 1990s—on my multiple assignments covering the monarch’s frequent royal tours crisscrossing all 20 districts of the country—that they are etched in my memory. I mentioned this fact nearly two decades later to New York Times writer Seth Mydans and Times videographer Mariko Takayasu during their assignment to cover Bhutan and Gross National Happiness. The pair were joined by Mariko’s son, Dylan, on break from high school. We traveled together, meeting and interviewing Bhutanese people from different walks of life: government leaders, farmers, professionals, and private individuals, anyone who might have the key to understanding Bhutan’s happiness policy. We arranged for Seth and Mariko to meet the Prime Minister, the Secretary for Gross National Happiness—yes, that’s a major arm of the Bhutanese government! —and some other high-ranking officials along the way. But the true insight came from a source more deeply rooted in the Bhutanese way of life. At one point in an interview with the (then) Prime Minister Lyonchhen Jigmi Y. Thinley, Seth interrupted him in the middle of explaining government policy and asked, somewhat unexpectedly: “What makes you personally happy?” The PM’s instant reply: “My family.” Farmers relax in Lobeysa, Bhutan, where time to socialize and enjoy deep family bonds are important ingredients for human happiness, the ultimate goal of government. © Karma Dorji, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions The prime minister said his strong family bonds were part of the secret sauce for his happiness and that the same was true for most average Bhutanese citizens. Therefore, extrapolated, it was an essential indicator of Gross National Happiness. The prime minister’s words made sense to me, and it explained the fourth king’s habit of reminding people to work together “like one big family.” It was, after all, the strongest representation of unity and strength in the culture. The word ‘family’ appears 45 times in the most recent national questionnaire for a survey of Gross National Happiness created by the Bhutanese think tank, the Centre for Bhutan Studies & GNH Research. Seth and Mariko nodded and took notes at the interview, but I couldn’t help wondering if my worldly journalist friends would be satisfied with the prime minister’s response. They were visitors with a limited time in Bhutan, working under tight international deadlines; how could we best share the truth of the prime minister’s words with them? We meant to find out. Some days later, driving over the 10,000-foot-high Dochu-La pass, we descended precipitously into the fertile cleft valley of Lobeysa. Our timing could not have been better. We arrived during the first harvest of the year when some fields are partially stubbled with squat golden yurts of harvested rice, but there are still fields full of tall, swaying paddy stalks, heavy with golden ears of grain. Most tours go on to the folklorically colorful village temple, Chimi Lhakhang, a.k.a “the Temple of the Divine Madman.” We decided, instead, to follow the aroma of roasted rice. In a smoky kitchen in Lobeysa, a woman roasts rice over a roaring fire. © Bhutan Himalaya archives It came wafting on the air from the bamboo thatch lean-to beside a traditional two-story home belonging to an elderly farmer, Thoeba, and his wife, Choengyim. As they saw us approaching, the couple stepped out to greet us with a large wok of freshly roasted rice, the newly puffed grains looking like cherry blossoms in miniature. Delighted, we fell to munching the still sizzling rice as the couple’s precocious grandchildren played underfoot. Soon, other family members and neighbors stopped by, some helping with the roasting while others dropped armloads of firewood on the hut’s mud floor, squatted, and began to stoke the flames in the open fire pit. Cheerful banter flowed back and forth; there was good-natured ribbing, punctuated by laughter. The couple’s older son, responsible for the heavy lifting on the farm, joined us sometime later. Then Thoeba and Choengyim invited us next door into their home, an ancient rammed-earth Bhutanese farmhouse with thick walls, heavy wooden beams, and new corrugated metal roofing (a recent change from the traditional slate and wood-shingle common to the region). There they proudly introduced us to a picture of their second son, a Buddhist monk, hanging in a frame beside the family altar. They proffered homemade khabzay , the mildly-sweet fried dough eaten during celebrations, followed by a simple meal of suja , or butter-tea, the newly roasted rice, and the fiery local rice-brew, ara , similar to the Japanese sake wine. Soon, Thoeba and Choengyim made us feel like extended members of the family. They ate shyly, fed us more, and between mouthfuls of the roasted rice soaked in butter-tea, spoke with quiet pride about their children like parents everywhere. When Seth and Mariko finally asked them if they were happy, they looked at each other and nodded. “What more do I need?” Thoeba said to Mariko, explaining. “The government takes care of us by providing agricultural subsidies [for seeds and farming equipment], free healthcare, and education [pointing to the grandchildren]. I work as long as I can. I stop when I need to. My fields provide for my family, and we rely on each other in times of difficulty. I pray if I have time left in the day, and if I’m tired, I cover my head and go to sleep.” Choengyim laughed, nodded her agreement, and said, “Yes, that is the way it is with us.” Farmers in Lobeysa winnowing rice. They 'invite' the wind to blow the chaff by means of whistling sharply in the air. © Karma Dorji, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions A farmer in central Bhutan at her daily prostrations when the day's work of cultivation is done. © Bhutan Himalaya archives As we made our way back through the rice fields in the gathering dusk, other members of Thoeba and Chongyim’s family appeared at the door. Their farm work done for the day, they stood around the two elders in a tight cluster, silhouetted against the whitewashed walls of their ancestral home, where so many of their generations had lived and died, waving us goodbye. Looking back toward the couple and their brood, I thought again about what the Prime Minister had said earlier about his family and personal happiness. Then I remembered His Majesty’s words about seeing the entire Bhutanese nation as one large family and, somehow, the two ideas melded in my mind and became one. Watch the New York Times video, Measuring Happiness , which includes footage of the Lobeysa farmer, Thoeba, and the Bhutanese Prime Minister’s interview. Credits: Mariko Takayasu & Christopher Flavelle, for the New York Times. Read the New York Times article of this journey: Recalculating Happiness in a Himalayan Kingdom, by Seth Mydans. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

My take on the cultural and philosophical resonances of Bhutan’s latest Oscar entry OPINION The Monk and the Gun Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions October 28, 2023 Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link A scene from the beautifully shot The Monk and the Gun, Bhutan's official nominee to the 2023 Academy Awards Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter A deep dive into the cultural and philosophical resonances of Bhutan’s latest Oscar Awards entry The Bhutanese star singer-songwriter Misty Terrace in his turn as the titular monk in The Monk and the Gun Bhutan’s official nominee for the 2023 Oscars, The Monk and the Gun, has been picked up by major international theatrical distributors, including Roadside Attractions in the United States, according to an October 26 report in Variety magazine. Following festival premieres at Telluride, Toronto, Rome, and Busan, The Monk and the Gun came home to Bhutan in a premiere event on October 16 attended by a virtual who’s-who of Bhutanese capital society, including the Queen, princes and princesses, and the outgoing democratically-elected Prime Minister, Dr. Lotey Tshering. The signature buckwheat fields of central Bhutan provide a lush backdrop for the closing scenes in the Monk and the Gun Bhutan’s Oscar entry hits the pitch-perfect notes every hopeful international film contestant needs: it’s visually stunning, culturally engaging, and intellectually profound. In short, it’s one of those rare films that lulls viewers with charming cultural asides even as it ambushes them with unexpectedly serious questions about change, modernization, the fundamental nature of social ills, and, ultimately, whether the very idea of democracy is an unmitigated good devoid of its cultural relevancy. Stars and fans at the Bhutan premiere of The Monk and the Gun While I can’t bring myself to agree with all the premises of The Monk and the Gun, one of which seems to be that the democratic endeavor itself is inherently flawed, it drives home some deep cautionary truths about the pitfalls of human nature. Wrapped into the alluring scenes of peaceful Bhutanese rural life filled with a nostalgic innocence—and amusing anecdotes from actual events that took place—are graver hints at the current zeitgeist of pessimism both here in Bhutan and abroad. While watching the film, the mind turns inevitably to the ugly polarization, the coarsening, indeed, the naked aggression and lack of restraint in political life and discourse, especially in the US, arguably the world’s pre-eminent and most successful democracy. Much of the plot twist in The Monk and the Gun rides on the question of what a monk possibly wants with a gun A still from The Monk and the Gun This film seeks to return viewers to the scene of those early societal tensions in Bhutan in the beginning of 2006 when democracy was still in its trial run in Bhutan. Indeed, TMATG works best when revealing—sometimes laughably—how the previously unified Bhutanese people even had to be taught how to separate themselves into three primary color-coded political parties so that they could make a show of an authentic democratic process at work to vaguely-hinted at international observers. Of course, the overwhelming victory in those early "mock elections" goes not to a party with the strongest argument but rather one with the color that has a powerfully significant cultural relevance in Bhutan. I won’t spoil why guns interest the Buddhist monk and his master, the wise lama. For that, you’ll have to watch the film. All I can say is that the final, entirely satisfying denouement of the movie is a very Bhutanese one. It proves a potent and timely message for an increasingly violent, trigger-happy, and conflict-ridden world, with particular relevance once again to the United States. We can all hope the movie’s unique message resonates in a country with one of the highest gun-related deaths globally. The presence in the narrative of an American antique gun dealer—who spends much of the time on screen nonplussed while obsessed with chasing the gun at the center of the film—may be driving home that point. The credit roll of The Monk and the Gun during which the film's talented young director thanked the cast and crew With the director of The Monk and the Gun, Pawo Choyning Dorji (right) The image of a Buddhist monk carrying a gun arrests both the eye and the mind. This apparent dichotomy is the narrative hook that draws the audience into the heart of this second feature film from the talented Bhutanese duo of Director-Producer Pawo Choyning Dorji and his Director of Photography—and Cinematography—Jigme Tenzing. The previous offering from the same production team, Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom, was similarly a surprising tale of modernization’s cost on a human scale, set in the highlands of Lunana in Bhutan. That film also appeared at the Oscars and was later picked up by the major online streaming platform Netflix, an astronomical success by Bhutanese film industry standards. Much was said and written about Bhutan’s transition to parliamentary democracy in the years leading up to and following the first democratic elections in Bhutan. Most of those observations came from non-Bhutanese pundits, journalists, and talking heads. By making this feature film, Pawo, Jigme, and their excellent cast and crew have wrested back the narrative of this crucial turning point in our history to a uniquely Bhutanese perspective to reveal what such enormous changes look like from the inside out. Promotional poster, The Monk and the Gun The world is a far richer, kinder place for us all when we each get to tell, see, and hear our own stories reflected to us in ways that feel true to us. By sharing this wise, thoughtful, and thought-provoking story with the world, Pawo, Jigme, and the Monk and the Gun production team empowers not just Bhutanese voices but adds to the intricate tapestry of important global narratives we all need to see and hear. The world needs complexity, not oversimplification; we need the organic, nurturing, and tangential roots and branches of wisdom from all our global traditions spreading outward into the world instead of the one-dimensional, homogenous, linear, market-driven economic narratives being pounded into our collective consciousnesses as if with the virtual battering rams of global mainstream culture. Ultimately, this is why TMATG is a brave, endearing film that deserves every bit of its success. It pleases the eyes, feeds the mind, and puts our lovely corner of the Himalayas squarely on the international film production map. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

IN FOCUS Putting Bhutan and the Gelephu Mindfulness City on the Map: The CBS 60 Minutes Story Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link CBS 60 Minutes Producer Shari Finkelstein and veteran 60 Minutes Cameraman Jonathan Partridge filming above the Tashichho Dzong, the building that also houses the king's office and the throne room. Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter THE CBS 60 Minutes Special Report on Bhutan and the Gelephu Mindfulness City , which aired in November 2024, was the result of a meticulously planned and executed journey that we coordinated with CBS 60 Minutes Producers Shari Finkelstein and Collette Richards. Just a few of the over 600 kilos of equipment that forms a part of the production gear for a 60 Minutes segment like the one on Bhutan. Following months of background prep—during which we worked closely with both the producers and Bhutan Foundation’s Director of Partnerships and Philanthropy, Tsering Yangzom, who provided the introductions—the adventure began in earnest as soon as the 60 Minutes team touched down at Paro International Airport, Bhutan's primary gateway for international visitors. The airport's dramatic setting, surrounded by towering mountains, immediately immersed the crew in Bhutan's awe-inspiring landscape, highlighted by an incredible opportunity for the film crew to shoot their approach into the Himalayas from the cockpit during their flight from Delhi, courtesy of private carrier Bhutan Airlines’ CEO Pema Nadik. Upon arrival, the team had no problems adjusting to the high altitude of Paro, which sits at over 7,300 feet above sea level. In consultation with the producers, we navigated Bhutan's tourism and official regulations in advance, securing special permits and visas required to film at a series of special locations within Bhutan’s carefully preserved boundaries. The complex and condensed itinerary took a part of our team and the 60 Minutes Crew on a whirlwind tour across Bhutan. In the capital city of Thimphu, they witnessed the vibrant Thimphu Drubchen festival, capturing the mesmerizing traditional masked dances. A highlight of their time in the capital was an interview with Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay, conducted from a balcony overlooking the majestic Tashichho Dzong fortress. Like a highly trained special ops team, the 60 Minutes crew hit the ground running as we sought to immerse them in Bhutanese culture. Within hours of arrival, they were filming capital city scenes such as the main city circle (where smartly uniformed policemen still direct traffic from a booth). They shot lots of “B-Roll” footage of ordinary citizens from all walks of life, capturing various aspects of the kingdom’s culture, modernization and Buddhist spirituality, including Bhutanese elders spinning prayer wheels at ancient temples and stupas. Then began a rapid-fire series of on-camera interviews, which were efficiently conducted by the anchor, the legendary Lesley Stahl, with a wide range of Bhutanese intellectuals and thinkers, government representatives and the past and current Prime Ministers. For some local color, we took them to see a tournament of archery, Bhutan's national sport. The 60 Minutes crew enjoying a light moment during the breakneck schedule that had us crisscrossing the country to complete the filming and interviews for the segment. A pivotal part of the reportage focused on the ambitious Gelephu Mindfulness City project in southern Bhutan. This segment of the trip involved a short flight from the capital to Bhutan's lush, tropical lowlands. We drove into the dense forests above the city and the crew climbed down to a scenic vantage point to survey the future city site. They conducted an insightful interview with Dr. Lotay Tshering, the former Prime Minister, who is spearheading the project under the command of the king. They also captured footage of the region's majestic Asiatic elephants roaming in the wild, in the jungles edging up right next to the sleek new double-lane road leading to the airport. The legendary CBS 60 Minutes News Anchor Lesley Stahl with the GMC Project Lead, former Prime Minister of Bhutan, Dr. Lotey Tshering. In a rare and privileged moment, the 60 Minutes team was granted a private audience with His Majesty the King of Bhutan, achieved through a series of requests to, and accommodations made by, His Majesty’s Secretariat, and the young team leaders at the GMC project, including the lead GMC communications officer Rabsel Dorji, and advisor-at-large, Dasho Kinley Dorji, a Bhutanese graduate of the Columbia School of Journalism in New York, who once led Bhutan's first national weekly, Kuensel. This exclusive meeting provided invaluable context and depth to the team’s understanding of the royal plans for the Gelephu Mindfulness City. During the audience, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck shared details of his vision, and the progress on the Gelephu Mindfulness City, a bold initiative aimed at creating new economic opportunities and potentially attracting Bhutanese citizens back to the country. This project is particularly relevant given Bhutan's recent challenges, including a significant portion of the population leaving the country (mostly for Australia) in recent years. The Prime Minister’s Office and the PMO’s Chief Communications Officer provided important lines of access to Bhutan’s democratically elected head of government, Lyonchhoen (Prime Minister) Tshering Tobgay. This comprehensive exploration of Bhutan, blending ancient traditions with ambitious future plans, culminated in the captivating 60 Minutes report that aired on November 17, 2024 , offering viewers a rare glimpse into what many consider an enigmatic kingdom, and its bold vision for the future. Behind the scenes at one of the interviews. Pictured on the monitor: Dasho Kinley Dorji, the father of modern journalism in Bhutan. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

INSIDE INFO Top 5 Homestay Experiences in Bhutan Bhutan Himalaya Editors Bhutan Himalaya Editors Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter HOMESTAYS ARE AN excellent way to experience local culture and stay with a Bhutanese family. These are our top 5 homestay experiences in Bhutan. Try your hand at traditional plough-and-ox farming at the Happiness Farm #5. The Happiness Farm in Paro: Bhutan’s first true agrotourism stay The Happiness Farm in Paro, Bhutan, offers a unique travel experience that encapsulates the nation's dedication to Gross National Happiness and environmental conservation. Perched on a hillside with panoramic views of the Chunzom River valley and surrounding mountains, this farm provides a tranquil setting for guests to immerse themselves in Bhutanese culture and nature. Operated by travel professional and cultivation enthusiast Dorji, and his wife Kezang, the farm is rated at a comfortable 3-star level and integrates traditional Bhutanese farming practices into its daily operations. Visitors can engage in a variety of eco-tourism activities designed to foster a hands-on understading of sustainable development practices and respect for the environment. Innovative activities include night excursions to potentially spot wild Himalayan Black Bears (not for the faint-hearted!), participating in an “adopt-a-fruit tree” program, and practical agricultural work such as planting, harvesting, and tending to the farm's organic gardens. The farm's location in Paro, a region celebrated for its breathtaking landscapes and its rich cultural heritage, allows easy access to famous sites like the Taktsang Monastery and the National Museum. Guests at the Happiness Farm can also join cooking classes that use fresh, organic ingredients from the farm, learn about local agricultural techniques, and collect eggs from the chicken coop. Additionally, the farm's secluded setting makes it an ideal spot for stargazing, offering guests the chance to observe constellations, shooting stars, and the Milky Way in clear skies. Through these activities, the Happiness Farm not only provides a unique and enriching travel experience but also contributes to Bhutan's efforts to preserve its natural and cultural assets. #4. The Happiness Fields Homestay Gatshothang, a name that means “Happiness Fields,” the popular homestay in Punakha, Bhutan, offers an immersive cultural experience. Located in Gubjithang, the house features stone-clad walls, black wooden frames, and a smoke-covered kitchen wall, giving it a rustic charm. The homestay, run by Aum Karma Yangchen, a passionate designer and traditional Bhutanese textile dye expert who has won several awards for her handcrafted products, is one of the most popular places to visit among local expatriates. Staying at the Happiness Fields Homestay allows you to participate in traditional textile dyeing with Aum Karma, explore the vast kitchen garden, milk cows, and make butter. The location offers breathtaking views of the opposite mountains and the early sight of morning mist settling on the river as the sun rises. Home-cooked meals at the homestay are a highlight, with a delicious range of Bhutanese dishes prepared with vegetables from Aum Karma’s organic kitchen garden. The homestay, located in a part of Punakha that often goes unnoticed by tourists, provides a unique and authentic local experience. Accessible only by a private suspension bridge and over 21 acres, the homestay offers a perfect getaway within a few hours from the nation’s capital, Thimphu. Services at the homestay include overnight stays, all meals, hot stone baths, and camping in an open field beside the Puna Tsangchhu River. A delicious Bhutanese spread at the Happiness Fields Homestay #3. Ama Om’s Homestay Ama Om’s Homestay , nestled amidst fields, orchards, and a vibrant mountain stream, offers a unique glimpse into the heart of Bhutanese culture and hospitality. The endearing rustic charm of this serene homestay is heightened the hanging frames of sepia-toned historical family photographs and an eclectic collection of Bhutanese contemporary art, thanks to its association with Asha Kama Wangdi, a leading figure in modern Bhutanese art. Known affectionately as “Asha,” Kama Wangdi grew up on this very homestead, which is now managed by his sister, Ama Chimi Om. The home is a testament to Bhutanese tradition, with rooms made colorful by the carefully preserved antique heirloom furniture and artifacts, alongside paintings by Asha Kama and his students. The culinary offerings at the homestay are equally traditional, with meals prepared from locally grown ingredients and ancient recipes, including the heady rice wine still brewed faithfully, in keeping with old family traditions, by Kama’s sister. One of the highlights of staying at Ama Om’s is the traditional hot stone bath experience. Guests are invited to soak in wooden tubs filled with water heated by red-hot stones, a practice deeply embedded in Bhutanese healing traditions. This experience is enhanced by the natural beauty of the surroundings, where Himalayan cherry blossoms and the sounds of a rushing stream create a backdrop reminiscent of a Japanese haiku. The essence of Bhutanese hospitality is palpable throughout the stay, from the warm welcome by the family’s dogs, Kongtu and Ruby, to the comfort provided by the homestay’s low-ceilinged rooms, and the cozy kitchen. Visitors are treated to scratch-made local delicacies like mengay, a rich Bhutanese rice “pizza,” served by Ama Om, her daughter Risel, and kitchen helper Doema, making each guest feel like part of the family. Ama Om’s Homestay offers visitors a deep connection to the land, its people, and their traditions. It stands as a beacon of the Bhutanese way of life, preserving the simplicity, honesty, and graciousness that are the hallmarks of the nation’s heritage. The lovely old house where the founding father of Bhutanese contemporary art grew up is at the heart of Ama Om's homestay. © Karma Dorji #2 The Mendegang Heritage Home This property is not just a residence but a symbol of cultural and historical significance. Nestled in the ancient capital region of Punakha, this ancestral home has been the seat of a noble family that has contributed prominent figures to Bhutanese society, including a former Prime Minister and a high-ranking reincarnated lama. The home itself is situated on a piece of land that, from afar, resembles a mandala—a sacred symbol in Himalayan Buddhism representing cosmic harmony. This resemblance has made the Mendegang Heritage Home a focal point for communal gatherings and religious celebrations. Mendegang Heritage houses three shrine rooms dedicated to the three primary figures of Bhutanese Buddhism: Maitreya, the Future Buddha; Shakyamuni, also known as Prince Siddhartha or the Buddha of our current eon; and Guru Rimpoche, the revered "Lotus-Born" saint of Bhutan. These shrines are adorned with intricate Buddhist murals—painted with natural pigments—drawn from the Drukpa Kagyu and Nyingma Buddhist traditions. It's a striking example of traditional Bhutanese architecture, reminiscent of a Swiss chalet, surrounded by beautiful hanging wisterias and bougainvilleas. The property also boasts a lovely Buddhist stupa that welcomes visitors, enhancing the spiritual ambiance. The home's connection to the land is palpable, with gardens that yield fresh produce like beans, maize, onions, and leafy greens, and an orchard that bears pomegranates when in season. These ingredients are used to create authentic farm-to-table meals for the guests, allowing them to savor the flavors of the region. For visitors, the Mendegang Heritage Home offers a genuine experience of Bhutanese lifestyle and culture. It stands as a testament to the agricultural heritage of the Punakha region and provides a serene retreat for those looking to immerse themselves in the authenticity of Bhutan. This handsome old ancestral house in Mendegang, Punakha, makes for an unforgettable homestay experience. Through its scalloped Bhutanese windows, one of the most storied homes in Bhutan provides a graciously authentic glimpse into the kingdom's history and folk culture. © Karma Dorji #1 The Ogyenchhoeling Manor and Museum Deep in the serene Tang Valley of central Bhutan lies the Ogyen Choling Manor & Museum , a fortress dating back to the 14th century that now serves as one of the most authentic lodging experiences in the country. This historic manor, once the residence of regional rulers and nobility, is currently managed by Ashi Kunzang Choden Roder, a 20th-generation descendant of the original founders, and her husband Walter Roder, a Swiss forester. The couple has revitalized this Bhutanese heritage site, transforming it into a distinctive lodge that offers travelers a rare chance to immerse themselves in a homestay deeply rooted in local history, culture, and community revitalization. Ashi Kunzang, a renowned Bhutanese author and literary figure, has lived and worked across the globe, including in the United States, Laos, India, and the Philippines. Her literary contributions include popular works such as "The Circle of Karma," "Bhutanese Tales of the Yeti," and "Dawa: The Story of a Stray Dog in Bhutan." The guest house at Ogyen Choling is a testament to environmental stewardship and community engagement, utilizing solar power for most heating needs and discouraging the use of plastic bottles. The on-site restaurant and guest services prioritize the use of local produce grown on the estate, ensuring that most daily necessities are sourced from within the vicinity of the historic structure. The manor also houses a comprehensive folk museum, boasting one of the most extensive collections in Bhutan. Accommodations at Ogyen Choling include a variety of unique options. The Tshamkhang, or Hermitage, is an independent cottage with two bedrooms and a shared living room featuring a traditional wood-burning stove. The Nubgothang, or West Gate Field, offers four rooms, while the Shagor, a two-story building that encloses the central tower, provides eight guest rooms. Each room is equipped with individual heating facilities, including the region's distinctive wood-burning stoves known as Bukhari, as well as electric heaters. All rooms come with attached bathrooms that include Swiss-imported sanitary installations. Guests at Ogyen Choling can indulge in a variety of activities during their stay. They can relax in the peaceful surroundings, explore the museum, visit significant Buddhist sites and temples in the valley, learn about local agricultural and weaving practices, meditate in the holy cave of Longchen Rabjam, and participate in cooking classes, lectures, and interactive sessions on topics such as culture, gender, agriculture, storytelling, and the history of weaving when available. This immersive experience at Ogyen Choling not only provides a tranquil retreat but also offers a deep connection to the cultural and spiritual heritage of Bhutan. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

Spotlight: The award-winning photographer John Wehrheim captures the stirring landscape of the Bhutan Himalaya. His portraits linger in the mind long after you’ve seen them, elevating the essential dignity of his subjects. John has worked for the Sierra Club Bulletin, National Geographic and Time-Life Books. More recently his work has been published by Smithsonian, Honolulu Magazine, Huffington Post, London Daily Mail, Slate, Buzz Feed, Trip, The Sun, and First To Know, and featured in the 50th Anniversary Issue of The Surfer’s Journal. SPOTLIGHT Bhutan: Hidden Lands of Happiness Clouds over Pazhi Lhakhang, 2001, © John Wehrheim Text and Images, John Weirheim January 11, 2023 at 7:11:50 PM By special permission to Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Bhutan Himalaya is proud to feature these iconic images of our native landscape, taken by our friend the award-winning photographer, artist and documentary filmmaker, John Wehrheim, accompanied by excerpted text from his highly-atmospheric book Bhutan: Hidden Lands of Happiness . John captures the personal stories and the stirring landscapes of his Hawaiian home and the Bhutan Himalaya where he has traveled extensively, two Edenic, some would say endangered, places that have left an imprint on his heart and his spectacular art. In an age of throwaway images, his portraits linger in the mind long after you’ve seen them, elevating the essential dignity of his subjects. John has worked for the Sierra Club Bulletin , National Geographic and Time-Life Books . More recently his work has been published by Smithsonian , Honolulu Magazine , Huffington Post , London Daily Mail , Slate , Buzz Feed , Trip , The Sun , and First To Know , and featured in the 50th Anniversary Issue of The Surfer’s Journal . Mother and children, Lubcha, Laya, 1994 © John Wehrheim Mother & Children, Laya A caterpillar with a thin mushroom growing between its eyes, the strange and rare yartsa goenbub, has become the main source of cash for most Laya people. Traditional oriental herbalists believe yartsa goenbub (Ophiocordyceps sinensis) prolongs life, acting as a powerful aphrodisiac and general panacea. With China’s new prosperity, the demand and price for yartsa goenbub have skyrocketed. The Chinese use farm implements and tractors to turn the soil and harvest yartsa goenbub; Bhutanese use their hands, as well as the sharp eyes and tiny fingers of their children, and do it without destroying their pastures. Sonam Drugyel lets loose his arrow, Tashi Thongmen Dzong, 2004, © John Wehrheim Divine Archer Sonam Drugyel wears his traditional gho with contemporary boots while competing in an age-old archery contest with a high-tech compound bow. Playing in a field next to a 17th Century Dzong, Sonam symbolizes Bhutan's blend of the ancient with the present. When the 15th-century Master of Truth, Lord of Beings, Drukpa Kinley was staying at Lady Semzangmo’s house in the Tibetan province of Yamdrok, he had a dream. Early the next morning, he strung his bow and loosed a wailing arrow into the southern sky. “Fly southwards to benefit all beings and the Tradition,” he intoned, “and land at the house of a blessed, heaven-favored girl.” Laya School, 2005, © John Wehrheim Highland Education The end of theocracy and the establishment of monarchy in 1907 began a gradual shift from monastic to secular education. The Royal family and nobility started the trend by sending their sons and daughters to private missionary schools in Kalimpong and Darjeeling. Then the Royal Government followed during the reign of the 3rd King, providing scholarships for particularly talented students to train as teachers, administrators, engineers, forest officers, and doctors. Bhutan provides eleven years of free schooling: one year of pre-primary school, six years of primary, two years of junior high and two years of high school. Many Bhutanese study abroad in English speaking countries. The vast majority of these Bhutanese students return to their homeland. Planting rice in Lobesa, 2005 © John Wehrheim Planting Rice In 2013, Bhutan announced it would be the world's first country to go one-hundred percent organic and started a qualification program supported by Organics International. Because the traditional cultural practices of Bhutan’s isolated communities have remained unchanged for centuries, the country is a treasure house of biodiversity with over six-hundred unique cultivars, landraces and wild species of rice. These lead the country’s crop production with estimated ninety-thousand metric tons in 2017. While Bhutan is close to achieving its goal of food self-sufficiency, rice yield falls about forty-percent short of rice consumption, with the balance imported from India—though local varieties are much preferred and command a premium in the market. Neylu snow, Laya, 2006 © John Wehrheim Neylu snow, Laya, 2006 The snowfall thickens as we break trail down to Neylu through knee-deep powder. All around the villagers celebrate the harvest festival of Awlley. During Awlley unmarried girls go boldly from house to house singing and dancing while some married women follow, hiding in blankets, peeking out to judge the families’ hospitality while seeking a match for their sons. If a hidden woman likes what she sees, she will subtly reveal herself and if the women of the household recognize her and consider her sons a good match, they will pull her blankets away and offer her tea and talk of marriage. Jomolhari 1994 © John Wehrheim Jomolhari, 1994 “Seventy-two percent of Bhutan is under pristine forest cover. Our constitution decrees that a minimum of sixty percent of Bhutan's total land shall remain under forest cover for all time... Our entire country generates 2.2 million tons of carbon dioxide, but our forests, they sequester more than three times that amount, so we are a net carbon sink for more than four million tons of carbon dioxide each year. Of the 200-odd countries in a world threatened with climate change, it looks like we are the only one that's carbon neutral.” ~ Lyonpo Tshering Tobgay, Prime Minister of Bhutan Sonam, Tshering and Namgay, Tango, 2002 © John Wehrheim Three Monks, 2002 I found a community of brothers living in small, scattered cottages and caves, hidden near the tree line. Each hermitage overlooked mountains, forests and sky. Wild animals were abundant and birdsong filled the air. The hermits were the hardest working, healthiest and most intelligent men I had met in Bhutan. They retreated in prayer, yoga and meditation for periods of three years and three phases of the moon. But if another monk needed a hand, they would show up and work from sunrise to sunset, sometimes joking and laughing but mostly focused on the job, doing the work like a silent dance. Prayer wheels on the trail to Taktshang, 1991 © John Wehrheim Prayer wheels on the trail to Taktshang, 1991 Painted with the syllables Om Mani Padme Hung, the spinning cylinders repeat the ancient mantra of wisdom and compassion. Though flowing water has powered prayer wheels and flour mills for centuries, electricity and hydropower first came to Bhutan in the 1960’s. Bhutan’s hydros are “run-of-the-river” without storage dams, significant deforestation or major population displacement. Diversions have state-of-the-art fish ladders that diminish disruption to aquatic migration. The Bhutanese believe that earth, trees, sky, and water all contain spirits and are guarded by protective deities. They know on every level, from superstition to science, that if they cut down their trees, pollute the air and foul the water, their prayer wheels will no longer send blessing out into the universe and the primary source of their life and livelihood will dry up. Karma Yuden and baby Tenzie, Gasa Hot Springs, 2004 © John Wehrheim Mother and baby, Gasa Hot Springs, 2004 Bhutanese make frequent pilgrimages to remote and often hidden hot springs. Called tsha chu and found throughout Bhutan, they are places of healing, community, rest and devotion. The chanting and prayer begin at dawn with the purifying sang ritual of burning juniper. In the evenings, around the cooking fires, beer, and ara flow, new friends are made and stories told. The songs and dances go late into the night while young men and women slip off to meet in the dark steaming baths. And day or night the healing sounds of laughter lighten the air. Previous Next Granny Lhanzom, Grandmother Gaki Om, Grandmother Tshering Dolkar, Karma Wangmo with little Metho, Thimphu, 2005, © John Wehrheim Four Generations of Bhutanese Women Her mother died when Lhanzom was a teenager. At twenty she married a trader. They had a daughter, then a son who died of chicken pox at five. Soon after her son’s death, Lhanzom’s husband fell off a horse and died on a trading journey. Lhanzom decided to go on pilgrimage with her ten-year-old daughter to pray for all her deceased loved ones. She became a trader herself, buying and selling jewelry along the pilgrimage. During this pilgrimage Lhanzom married Ugyen Tenzin, the son of a friend of her deceased mother and a member of her pilgrimage group. [I]n the fourth moon of the Horse Year of 1954, Tshering Dolkar, was born. Lhanzom’s daughter, Tshering Dolkar, the mother of Karma Wangmo, runs a large handicraft and jewelry shop, a business she learned from her mother. TWEET EMAIL Travel Stories Discover a fascinating temple that preserves an ancient history of migration ; How brown trout came to Bhutan's rivers ; Traveling to learn about Bhutan's 'happiness' philosophy and other stories. What We're Talking About The King's Speech; Bhutan's rapid (pandemic) vaccine response blending science and faith; Why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 nand other stuff we're talking about. Browse upcoming journeys for 2023 & beyond _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: a summer journey JOURNEYS Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan’s Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha’s Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What Our Travelers Say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

EVENTS The Raven Crown: Royal Scepter of Bhutan’s Buddhist Kings Summary transcript of a 2009 lecture at the San Francisco Asian Art Museum. Speaker: Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator of Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link The raven crown's symbolic transfer during the 2008 coronation of Bhutan's fifth king. From the royal archives Home > Stories > Current Page Facebook X (Twitter) WhatsApp LinkedIn Pinterest Copy link With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. Questions? Get in touch with us Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced! Lola W., California Get similar features & travel information straight to your inbox with the Bhutan Himalaya Newsletter Introduction Tonight’s topic is the Raven Crown, the royal scepter of Bhutan’s Buddhist kings. The seal of the feudal lords from various parts of the country formalizing the first king's ascension to the throne. © The Raven Crown: The Origins of Buddhist Monarchy in Bhutan by Michael Aris, Serindia Publications The relationship between Buddhism and monarchy in Bhutan is deeply intertwined; one cannot exist without the other. This unique connection shapes the nation’s identity and the role of its rulers. Comparing Crowns: East and West To illustrate the difference in perceptions of monarchy, consider the crown of Rudolf II, Emperor of Austria. This Western crown is heavily bejeweled, designed to display wealth and power. In contrast, the Raven Crown of Bhutan is simple, adorned mainly with hand embroidery and a raven’s head. This simplicity reflects a different philosophy: Bhutanese kings do not rule by divine right to demonstrate power, but as protectors and upholders of the Buddha's teachings of peace, or 'Dharma,' in Sanskrit. Kingship: Divine Right Versus Dharma In ancient Vedic India, Hindu kings were believed to be divine, descended from the gods, and thus infallible. They followed “Raja Dharma,” the law of the king, granting them absolute power—even over life and death. In Bhutan, however, the concept is reversed: the king is a “Dharma Raja,” bound by the law of Dharma, the Buddhist faith. The king is both protector and servant of Dharma, responsible for the welfare of the people and the preservation of culture. Symbolism of the raven The raven on the Bhutanese crown is not merely decorative. In Vajrayana Buddhism, which is the state religion in Bhutan, the raven represents Mahakala, a powerful protector deity. According to legend, Mahakala was originally a destructive demon, granted immortality by the gods. After sowing terror across the Buddhist universe, he was subdued and transformed by the Buddhas of Compassion and Wisdom. Through their union, Mahakala was turned into a force for good, embodying the Buddhist principle of transforming negative energy into positive action. The raven-faced protective deity of Bhutan is considered to be a form of Mahakala, and the raven crown symbolises the protective force of Mahakala, and the deity's blessings on the monarchy's leadership. The raven crown evolved from a battle helmet worn by the father of Bhutan’s first king, known as the 'Black Regent.' Before a campaign against the British, the powerful warlord prayed to the raven-faced form of Mahakala for protection, and subsequently went to battle wearing the specially blessed helmet with the raven on top. Legends say he was so empowered by the mystic helmet that he struck down his enemies from afar. The first king of Bhutan, Ugyen Wangchuck, inherited this legacy, using the symbolism of the raven to unify warring factions and bring peace to the country. Raven on a temple roof in central Bhutan. © Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions Contributions of Bhutan’s Kings In the hagiography of the Bhutanese kings the following activities highlights their roles as protectors and upholders of the national good: The first king unified the country and brought political stability to the kingdom. The second king reformed Bhutan’s taxation system, reducing excesses and using savings to build temples and monasteries. The third king fostered diplomatic relations with India, ensuring Bhutan’s independence despite its precarious position between India and China. The Fourth King continued the visionary leadership of the kings and came up with the radically progressive idea (in 1972) of Gross National Happiness , a government in the service of the people's happiness and wellbeing instead of following the conventional yardstick of national growth, Gross Domestic Product. The Fourth King's Early Life and Ascension His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the Fourth King of Bhutan, became king at the age of 17, the youngest monarch in the world at that time. At an early age, he articulated his personal philosophy, and decision, to measure the nation’s success not by material wealth, but by the level of happiness and well-being of its people The first king of Bhutan, His Majesty 'Gongsar' Ugyen Wangchuck, wearing the raven crown. © The Raven Crown: The Origins of Buddhist Monarchy in Bhutan by Michael Aris, Serindia Publications Gross National Happiness (GNH) As a result GNH became the guiding principle of Bhutanese governance, emphasizing sustainable development, environmental preservation, cultural integrity, and good governance. The Fourth King’s vision brought free education and healthcare, improved infrastructure, and the modernization of agriculture and hydropower, especially in remote areas of the country. Leadership by Example Despite his status, the Fourth King lived simply and remained close to the people. He would travel across the country, often walking with his ministers to meet villagers and understand their needs directly. His humility and dedication to service were evident in his personal interactions and his belief that the destiny of the nation lies in the hands of the people The fourth king of Bhutan, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, serving lunch to the people in a rural part of the country. From the royal archives The fourth and fifth kings of Bhutan with the young current crown prince symbolically opening the national day celebration, which takes place each year on December 17th. From the royal archives Democratic Transition A hallmark of his reign was the peaceful transition from absolute monarchy to parliamentary democracy. The Fourth King voluntarily reduced his own powers, initiated decentralization, and oversaw the adoption of Bhutan’s written Constitution. In 2008, he abdicated in favor of his son, believing that the time was right for the people to take a more active role in governing their nation. The Fifth King: Continuity and Connection The coronation of King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, the Fifth Druk Gyalpo, was a momentous event in 2008. The ceremony, rich in Buddhist tradition, symbolized not only a transfer of power but also a reaffirmation of Bhutan’s spiritual and cultural values. The celebrations lasted for days, drawing people from all corners of the country and abroad, reflecting the deep respect and affection for the monarchy. The Fifth King, like his father, is known for his humility, accessibility, and deep connection with the people. He travels extensively, engaging directly with citizens and serving as a moral conscience for the government. His reign continues the legacy of his father, emphasizing service, justice, and equality. Evolution of the King's Role With the advent of democracy, the king’s role has evolved. The Fifth King serves as a unifying figure and protector of Bhutanese traditions, culture, and religious values. His coronation oath, delivered before the nation’s elected leaders, pledged lifelong service to the people in the spirit of kindness, justice, and equality. **2025 Update: As reported in the CBS 60 Minutes Special Report on Bhutan , the fifth king is currently working on a progressive city of the future founded on the principles of Mindfulness . Buddhism, Kingship, and Democracy The idea of democracy is deeply rooted in Buddhist philosophy, as reflected in early sutras describing the first king as being elected by the people to mediate discord and restore harmony. In Bhutan, this tradition endures: the monarchy exists not as an absolute authority, but as a servant of the people and Dharma, emphasizing the general good and wellbeing of the people. The Raven Crown embodies Bhutan’s unique philosophy of kingship: rulers are bound by Dharma, serving as protectors of the Buddhist faith and the people. The Fourth and Fifth Kings have exemplified this ideal, guiding Bhutan through modernization, democratic reform, and the pursuit of Gross National Happiness. Their leadership reflects a harmonious blend of tradition, spirituality, and progressive governance, charting a map for the future based on the values and traditions of the past. To receive similar updates in your inbox, please subscribe to our newsletter Email* Yes, subscribe me to your newsletter. Submit Swipe left above for more See our upcoming journeys Trek to Treasure Lake Trans Bhutan Trail: Haa, Punakha & Bumthang Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Celebrating 40 years of Bhutan Foundation at the spectacular Royal Highland Festival Marvels & mask dances Timeless Bhutan: In the Footsteps of Monica & Fritz von Schulthess Journey to Bhutan's spectacular Royal Highland Festival & Beyond Trek to Treasure Lake, Trongsa Festival & Tiger’s Nest-3 Conservation, culture and the grand Trongsa Festival Bhutan conservation, culture, mythology & overland from western to central highlands Lodge to lodge trekking on the epic Trans Bhutan Trail Western Bhutan Insider View all journeys _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: A summer journey DEPARTURES Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan's Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha's Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What our travelers say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US

Spotlight: HOTEL REVIEW The COMO Metropolitan in Bangkok Karma Dorji May 6, 2024 at 2:36:52 AM Even though it was nearly midnight when we pulled up in front of Bangkok's COMO Metropolitan, the sight of the hotel's tall terminalia trees wrapped in winking holiday lights cheered us. As soon as our car arrived at the hotel’s airy and modern front entrance, staff in crisp white uniforms opened our doors. Bags were whisked away at the front steps to mysteriously reappear in our rooms. Instead of the normal standing front desk check-in, a chilled welcome drink arrived at one of the Nordic minimalism sofas in the lobby, and we were invited to relax, with a polite staff member assisting with our arrival. At the hotel’s signature COMO Shambhala spa downstairs, each morning kicked off with yoga instruction from 8 to 9 am, conducted briskly and efficiently by a competent teacher and hygienic mats and props. The spa, billed as a haven for those ‘seeking tranquility amid the urban hustle,’ offers a range of wellness therapies we sadly didn’t try. The refined lobby signals luxury with a modern, understated design, creating a restful, visually-aesthetic environment. Cool, high thread count sheets and comforters ensure a good night’s sleep while thick bathrobes, smooth on the outside and warmly toweled on the interior, were welcome treats. In the morning we sat down to breakfast by the pool. By the time our perfectly cooked eggs arrived, the sun was beginning to climb. It was still pleasant, but we could feel the heat of Bangkok building. The tallest terminalia trees craned their necks over the turquoise pool like long-necked arboreal giraffes. A welcome breeze stirred, creating ripples and shaking loose a golden shower of delicate leaves over the water’s surface. As if on cue, at the far end of the pool, the pool cleaner dipped the long pole of his ‘fishing’ net in the water, scooped up a pile of leaves, flipped the net expertly over without losing the wet leaves, then dipped it in the water again, and again, as more and more leaves glittered down to the water’s surface. Watching the Sisyphean act was strangely comforting—a reminder that one can do even the most tedious tasks with apparent ease, precision, and concentration. That general sense of order marked our three-night stay at the Metropolitan, nestled off of a long private tree-lined avenue in the commercial Sathorn district of Bangkok, in the heart of the city. At meals in the Michelin-starred restaurant Nahm , staff appeared discreetly at the elbow to explain the menu. Poolside, cool, frosted glasses of strawberry and lemon, or orange-infused water appeared unbidden, dripping beads of condensation, a perfect balm in the searing midday madness of Bangkok. Attentive staff made guest interactions a pleasure, from the spontaneous folded hands wai , a traditional greeting of Thai hospitality, to the genuine smiles that came with each glance or encounter. The personalized concierge services, the seamless check-in, and many other details large and small were handled with unhurried care and thoughtfulness. The rooms—ours were upgraded from Studio to the Metropolitan, a perk for booking directly with the hotel—was a harmonious combination of sleek furnishings, warm color palettes, and thoughtful details such as the daily still-life platter of fresh fruits. In addition to the award-winning Nahm, room service included a 24-hour cafe perfect for the midnight munchies. A diverse range of flavors were on offer, showcasing Thai delicacies and international menu favorites, expertly crafted and plated, elevating the dining experience. In our three short days, we conveniently explored the dynamic energy of Bangkok with the relief of knowing we had a restful retreat on our return. Overall, the experience was a sophisticated escape in the heart of Thailand's bustling capital we can confidently recommend to our guests. We also found the hotel within walking distance of the city’s green lung, Lumphini Park, an oasis of ornamental shrubs, trees, walking paths, open-air exercise installations, where periodically huge local fairs are held. (During our stay we spent a pleasant evening at a massively attended fundraising fair to raise money for the Thai Red Cross). The vibrant Silom area in the Bangrak district, famous for its nightlife and local markets is also within short distance. What we loved: Next door was the more ostentatious Banyan Tree and the Sukhothai, but the Metropolitan falls in the Goldilocks zone, offering luxe surroundings and amenities while providing an unfussy sanctuary after each day’s exposure to the sensory overload of one of Asia’s busiest, and most cosmopolitan cities. Its low buildings and lush greenery make it feel like an elegant oasis amid the bristling nest of shiny-mirrored high rise towers. Pricepoint: We paid about $150/nightly for our upgraded Metropolitan room, which was well appointed with all the creature comforts we needed. Booking: Book directly at the COMO Metropolitan Bangkok for complimentary room upgrades and other perks. Tip: Booking directly with the hotel (price-matched) gives you a complimentary room upgrade as well as early check-in and late check-out. Cons: Views from the rooms can be improved vastly by a more recent window cleaning. Nice Touch: One of the most painful things about flying to Bhutan from Bangkok is the extremely early hour of the flights—usually 5 to 6 am, which means you must be at the airport between 3 to 4 am, which in turn means you may have to leave the hotel in the city around 2:20 and 3:20 am! The nice touch? They even had an elegantly boxed breakfast waiting downstairs for us that we could enjoy on the pre-dawn ride to the airport if we were so inclined. And for 500 Baht, a comfortable taxi with an extremely polite driver was on standby to whisk us to our early flight along the fast expressway and tolls were included in the price. Previous Next Upstairs, the bed was beautifully turned down, the mattress was like a cloud, and the curtains opened to a view of the trees bending in the breeze as if from a Japanese dream. In the closet, pairs of complimentary slippers—his and hers—made from bamboo fibers awaited use. TWEET EMAIL Travel Stories Discover a fascinating temple that preserves an ancient history of migration ; How brown trout came to Bhutan's rivers ; Traveling to learn about Bhutan's 'happiness' philosophy and other stories. What We're Talking About The King's Speech; Bhutan's rapid (pandemic) vaccine response blending science and faith; Why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 nand other stuff we're talking about. Browse upcoming journeys for 2023 & beyond _________ Travel Logistics Organizer for CBS 60 Minutes 2024 special report on Bhutan “First, thank you for making my trip to Bhutan run smoothly. Second, for explaining your culture and customs to me and our team in a way that helped our 60 MINS story come alive. Third, for making the visit seriously fun!” ~ Lesley Stahl, Correspondent, CBS 60 Minutes, September 2024 Search Travel Bhutan Abundance: a summer journey JOURNEYS Blessings of Bhutan Bhutan’s Jomolhari Trek Heart of Happiness Trek to Treasure Lake On the Wings of Prayer Punakha’s Pageant of Warriors Bhutan in the Time of Rhododendrons SEE ALL JOURNEYS Stories Hidden Lands of Happiness SPOTLIGHT Wild Wild East: How an ancient matriarch led her people to Bhutan Our top 10 reasons why you should visit Bhutan in 2023 How the brown trout came to Bhutan's lakes and rivers The top 10 mask dances to see in Bhutan Pomp & circumstance at Bhutan's warriors festival A journey to learn about Gross National Happiness SEE ALL STORIES Us The Bhutan Himalaya Difference ABOUT US Who we are The Bhutan Himalaya Difference What Our Travelers Say Our Team Meet our latest hires CONTACT US